Four Marlborough Sauvignon Blancs to get the mouth watering

After Sauvignon Blanc Day, using social media platforms, I tasted 4 wines. Inspired by the recent rush of information about just how good NZ Sauvignon Blanc was and definitely is, it was a chance to savour Marlborough.

Marlborough has definitely witnessed a rise in quality of Sauvignon Blanc since 2009. The region has undergone a major overhaul of their raison d’être, and all this show in their wines.

Forrest Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2012:

A very pale straw colour that radiates in the glass. An exaggerated array of tropical aromas with hints of peas and gooseberry. The palate still ramians tight and firm with good concentration of fruit to balance the hints of green and mineral characters. The acid is noticeable but in check and you won’t need to preload on Gaviscon.
Overall it’s a very good wine. Ideally matched with Snapper and other white fleshed fish.
90 Points
5 Stars
RRP $22

Mudhouse Sauvignon Blanc 2012:

Fruit for this wine comes from many sub-regions across Marlborough, including Wairau and Awatere. This wine has proved a real show stopper, as have past vintages. The Mudhouse group have seen a raft of personel changes recently, all for the better.
A wine of broad appeal. It will please those looking for classic Marlborough characters, but will also please those looking for a wine with some edge. The nose of gooseberry and grapefruit are balanced with those of more tropical fruit. The palate has good weight and structure. Good length and finish. Still young and will go a few more years yet, if you care to cellar NZ Sauvignon Blanc.
89 Points
4 Stars
RRP $20

Saint Clair Sauvignon Blanc 2012:
An easy carefree drink now wine, but don’t let that fool you thinking this isn’t a serious wine, a winner of awards will tell you otherwise. Abundant fruit aromas on the nose. Blackberry, Grapefruit and hint of Mango wrestle for prominence. The palate weight is chunky and a surprise for a 3rd tier wine. It has a nice steely quality with tight mineral finish. Bang for buck it’s value for money.
88 Points
4 Stars
RRP $19

Mahi Sauvignon Blanc 2012:
If you’ve read Cuisine magazine you’ll know this wine picked up 3 stars. This wine is far more than just 3 stars, in fact I’ll start by telling you it’s a 5 star wine. Although it’s Mahi’s entry level Sauvignon that doesn’t detract from the fact that it’s a very solid wine.
Organic in philosophy, and a premium producer within Marlborough, Brian Bicknell has made this wine from fruit sourced from 9 sites. It is a bit of everything. Some fruit handpicked, some barrel fermented, some wild yeast. The wine is very well rounded. There aren’t any noticeable holes in the wine. A balanced and refined nose. A weighty and textural palate. An extremely good wine from one of the regions shining stars, oh, and characters.
91 Points
5 Stars
RRP $22

Waipara Hills Equinox 2012 Chardonnay

Made from grapes, of the Home Block vineyard, that were whole bunch pressed. The juice then fermented in 30% new French oak barrels. The barrel certainly adds complexity and roundness to this wine. 2012 in Waipara witnessed a cool Summer, but lovely warm Autumn.

Generous white peach and freshly baked apple strudle are the most obvious aromas. The palate is also generous and full. The acid balance is spot on, with large amounts of fruit and oak this wine could easily have gone either way. Everything about this wine is generous, but in a good way. It sits in the middle of the road, and will not offend those that like large Chardonnays, nor will it offend those that prefer the more lean wines.

87 Points
4 Stars
RRP $27

Cloudy Bay 2007 Pelorus

As we draw near the end of Summer, there’s no better way to celebrate, what has been truly amazing weather, than with some of New Zealand’s finest bubbles. It certainly is a wine that warrants celebration.

Reminiscent of small French village aromas of brioche and freshly baked croissant on the nose. The zing of French golden delicious apples, then stewed and caramelised with vanilla pods, are the characters on the palate.  It’s a wine for more than celebration. It lifts te spirit after a hard days work. Well balanced and worthy of being one of NZ’s premier bubbles, although much more palatable at $39 than $50.

91 Points
5 Stars
RRP $49.99

Misha’s vineyard New Release Wines 

Café Hanoi is a great fit for the recent release of Misha’s Vineyard wines. Their wines were recently used as an example of great wines at tasting in Vietnam, hosted by Reidel glasses for 120 people, and for $110 per person for the master class, run by George Riedel himself.

Working with riedel, and being used in their masterclass, is very prestigious. “Vietnamese people are excited about exploring wine. We’re in love with Vietnam” said Andy. They seem very passionate about Vietnam. Maybe because of its French heritage, or maybe the warmth of its people. Whatever it is, both Misha and Andy seemed very excited by the country.

Misha and Andy sent the wine to team at Café Hanoi prior to tasting, asked to match aromatics. Whilst the aromatics all worked with the accompanying food, the Pinot Noirs didn’t. That’s not to say the food wasn’t great, merely they seemed a little mismatched.

This tasting had a little bit of luxury surrounding it. A little exotic. A little bit of Vietnam in central Auckland. The fresh and bright sunny day reminds one of their wines. Their whites are youthful and bright. They’re full of character too. Don’t let their young age put you off, for their wines bely their youth.

The gallery Gewürztraminer 2012

Deliciously rich with honied and lychee nose. Off dry palate with full fruit and definite oiliness. Slight hint of alcohol on the finish, but finish is long.
89 points

Dress circle Pinot Gris 2012

Bottled in October. 25% natural yeast ferment. Off dry. Rich and punchy pear and dried fruit characters on the nose. Fruit hangs perfectly on a back drop of precise acid and minerality.
91 points

Limelight Riesling 2012

Delicacy is the operative description for this wine. Very well balanced . Lovely candied citrus fruit. Pinpoint acid. Good length, but very youthful enthusiasm for pleasing. A Labrador puppy, just hope it ages well.
91 points

The starlet Sauvignon Blanc 2012

Light colour doesn’t hint at the punch that this wine delivers. Mealy citrus fruit. Well balanced. Mineral finish, with fruit sweetness. A textural Sauvignon Blanc. Great balance and poise.
89 points

Impromptu Pinot noir 2011

Hint of carbonic maceration on the nose. Reminiscent of Beaujolais. Designed for en-premise entry into central otago Pinot noir. Creaminess with slightly bitter fruit. Sour cherry.
86 points

The High Note Pinot Noir 2009

Delicate aromatics more savoury aspect given that most wines are fruit driven from Misha’s. the palate displays dark cherry and spice. Good length.
90 points

Verismo Pinot Noir 2009

More aromatics on the nose than the high note. More intense fruit. Power yet seductive velvet fruit. More red than black fruit. Balanced, smooth tannin profile. A real step up.
92 points

Verismo Pinot Noir 2010

Very masculine nose. Dense dark fruit. More developed than its youth suggests. Great palate weight. Mature beyond its years. Great balance and poise. A regal Pinot. A fruit sweetness that makes this wine very seductive. A classic in the making. The question is how many bottles will last in ten years time when the wine finally hits its mark?
93 points.

A very impressive range of wines all from one vineyard!

Marlborough, The King Of NZ Pinot!

Whilst tasting my way through Pinot 2013 three things struck me. There’s a vein of similarity that runs through waipara Pinot Noir, Central Otago produce the most consistent in quality, yet Marlborough produces the best, and some of the poorest Pinot Noir.

Seresin’s Sun and Moon Pinot Noir is, quite simply, one of the best New Zealand Pinot Noirs I’ve had the pleasure to taste. I’d go so far to say that it’s undervalued. It’s about time that some great examples of New Zealand wine started breaking the $200.

The group of wines from Marlborough that impressed me the most were from a small group of winemakers called MANA. From Fromm, and Hans Herzog through to Te Whare Ra, all of their wines had an elegance. These wines showed where they came from, all had provenance. All were of exceptional quality.

Auntsfield, Cloudy Bay Mustang, Clos Marguerite, Dog Point, and Wither Hills’ single vineyard Pinot ranges from large production through to boutique operation, yet all are balance, different, and of great quality. It’d be hard to find a region with a greater price spectrum. Hard to find a region that offers something for everyone.

Whilst the world, especially the Aussies, drink Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, I’ll be drinking their Pinot Noir.

Duncan Forsythe lit the room up with a ribbing of Sam Neil and kicking Pinot 2013 Day 2 off. With quick wit and some dry and self deprecating humour introduced the days program and speakers.

First keynote of the day was Mike Bennie. Mike talked about authenticity, talking the talking, and now having to walk the walk. The most entertaining speech given rapturous applause, whilst very true, the audience was split with those making, in my opinion, authentic wine and those who know they aren’t. With nervous laughter and nervous shuffling in the audience I felt that the authenticity nail was firmly hit.

With the help of Dan Simms, Mike had produced a video defining authenticity and what it meant in relation to wine and especially Pinot Noir.

Next up was Marlborough Pinot discussion and tasting.

A worrying statement from the floor is that “consistency breeds authenticity” I beg to differ. Consistency breeds homogenousisation. Various seasonal conditions and attributes add intrigue to wine. It would be remiss of Marlborough, and any other region, to rely on consistency. Variety is the spice of life, and many consumers do not want NZ wine to be produced like coke!

Marlborough underplays the quality of its Pinot Noir. The value of their Pinot would also suggest this. Value for money, Marlborough over delivers, and far too often we’re told that Central Otago is the place for Pinot. The people of Marlborough are humble, as are most of their Pinots.

A whopping 46% of all Pinot Noir bottled in New Zealand comes from Marlborough. It’s a big hitter but Pinot lives in the shadow of Sauvignon Blanc. Events like this help shine a little light under the carpet on the other varieties.

Highlights of the tasting:

There’s something special happening with a small group of wineries in Marlborough. They call themselves MaNa. They try and make their wines as naturally as possible. They are some of the smartest NZ wines I’ve had the pleasure of tasting.

The group includes Te Whare Ra, Fromm, Herzog, Huia, Rock Ferry, Seresin, and Clos Henri. I can honestly say that there wasn’t a single wine that I didn’t like. Seresin’s ‘Sun and Moon’ Pinot Noir 2009 rivaled New Zealand’s greatest wines, if not the best. Te Whare Ra 2009 and Fromm Clayvin 2010 was also at the top, as was Herzog 2010.

Simply put, these guys are rocking it. The philosophy of the group is very much in line with with my own beliefs, and if they’re making great wine, then so much the better. Their wines have an x-factor, as I find with many biodynamic wines. Ask me to pick them blind and I may struggle.

Each wine represented something of the winemaker. A radiance, an honesty, and integrity are the keys to these wines, much like the people who are involved in making them.

Overall, I find Marlborough the most exciting Pinot Region. There were more wines at the tasting that wow’d me than the other regions.

For more details on Mana

It’s nice to be surprised every now and then. Actually, it’s nice to be surprised fullstop. So when there were a few wineries names that I wasn’t overly familiar with, at the Pioneers tasting, it was more than welcomed.

Along with the usual suspects of Ata Rangi Neudorf, Schubert, Pyramid Valley, Craggy Range and Dry River, that I get to taste frequently and we all know make sublime wines, it was the smaller guys that made an equally good impression.

It became very obvious that New Zealand has now many wineries making world class Pinot Noir, and it’s very affordable compared to other great Pinot producing regions of the world. Is New Zealand Pinot Noir being sold too cheaply, or are they just paying their dues.

Of all the regions tasted, Waipara had a common vein running through a vast majority of the wines tasted. Many of the wines had similar profiles

Highlight wines:

Pyramid Valley Angel Flower 2010: An intriguingly funky nose. Very clean, pure, and precise wine. Balance is the key. Depth of character with fruit and savoriness balanced beautifully. Chalky ripe tannin and good length. 94 pts

Pyramid Valley Earth Smoke 2010: Treated exactly the same as Angel Flower but distinctly different. Medicinal characters take you back to your childhood. The red spicy fruit come through well on the balanced palate. Delicious. 92 Pts

Both Pyramid Valley wines tasted were biodynamic wines.

Fancrest Estate Pinot Noir 2010: Earthy characters on the nose with hints of liqurice and black fruit. Youthful wine with agressive tannin. Built for cellaring. 88-91 pts

Fancrest Estate Pinot Noir 2009: A wine that has started to mellow. Ripe summer berry compote aromatics with lifted violets and hint of saddle leather. The tannin is fine and chalky. Balanced

Both Fancrest Estate wines tasted were biodynamic wines.

All of the other highlights of the tasting I’ve written about before. They include: Mountford, Pegasus Bay, Black Estate, etc.

Kumeu River Estate and Forrest Estate wines

Kumeu River Estate Pinot Gris 

New Zealand wine has suffered at the hands of wineries that produce sugar water Pinot Gris. Fortunately Kumeu River don’t subscribe to the ideology of Pinot Gris being a cash cow, and treat it with the respect it deserves.

Better known for their Chardonnay, which is world class, than the heavy fruit setting Pinot Gris. As with most of their wines they’ve let wild yeasts ferment the hand harvested grapes, and that certainly adds character. This wine is all about aromatics and texture.

Technically this wine is considered off-dry, yet there is a definite dryness on the palate. The floral aromatics are a delight that lead into a balanced and thoroughly textural experience. A hint of spice cuts through the fruit sweetness making this wine well suited to Asian cuisine.

92 Points
5 Stars
RRP $29.99

Forrest Estate 9.5% Sauvignon Blanc

I’ve struggled with the concept of low alcohol Sauvignon Blanc, no actually wine itself, just drink less of the bloody stuff, or wait till you get home if worried about drink driving. This is political correctness, and marketing, gone mad.

That said, the overall quality of this wine is good. You’d struggle to identify this wine as low alcohol. The fruit quality is there as is the balance. It’s traditional Marlborough characters leave you in no doubt that this wine is true to its origins. The process for making this wine can sometimes leave it lacking character. That hasn’t happened with this wine.

Tropical fruit, pineapple, and hints of mango on the nose. The palate, albeit lighter in style, offers generous fruit with good balance and precision acid. It’s a wine to be enjoyed over Summer with fresh white fleshed fish!

88 Points
4 Stars
RRP $19.99

Terra Sancta Pinot Noir 2011 and Discovery Point Sauvignon Blanc 2011

Terra Sancta Pinot Noir 2011, Central Otago and Discovery Point Sauvignon Blanc 2011, Marlborough

Terra Sancta Pinot Noir 2011: Simply meaning ‘Sacred Earth’, Terra Sancta vineyards and winery are to be found on the  hallowed ground of Felton Road, Central Otago.

Mark Weldon, former CEO of the New Zealand Stock Exchange, and his wife, Sarah Elliott, bought this vineyard. formerly Olssen’s, just over a year ago. With much upheaval and displeasure amongst locals, they’ve transformed this winery.

A new lick of paint, new label, now Terra Sancta are in the business of making serious Pinot Noir. The Terra Sancta ‘Mysterious Diggings’ 2011 Pinot Noir is great value for money. Maturation was in 100% old French oak barrels and then bottled early in 2012.

It’s all about primary fruit, and so Bannockburn, with ripe black Doris plums and sweet raspberry on the nose. The palate is simple but enjoyable, especially when you can buy this wine for under $25. It’s a great entry level Central Otago Pinto Noir., although I still find the label polarising.

88 Points
4 Stars
RRP $25

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Discovery Point Sauvignon Blanc 2011: Grapefruit, Grapefruit, Grapefruit! The nose is dominated by grapefruit and the palate has a lovely grapefruit pith texture. Actually this wine is a very decent drop. The nose also has other tropical fruit. the palate is all about texture, fruit sweetness, and the long mineral finish.

Discovery Point Sauvignon Blanc take you back to when Sauvignon Blanc was treated well and not just a commodity. Worth seeking out and at under $20 it’s a good buy.

89+ Points
4 Stars
RRP $21

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Best NZ Bubbles for Christmas day 

Here is my annual ‘Top NZ Bubbles’ list. The wines below have been compiled from my tasting notes of the wines tasted this year. It’s always a hard list to compile, but a fun one none the less.
What people are after at Christmas is wine that’s reliable and good value. All wines tend to come down in price over this period, so there are great bargains to be had.

Huia Blanc de Blancs 2005: Simply stunning wine. Value for money +++. It’s my overall favourite NZ bubbles. Made from 100% Chardonnay. This is about as close as you can get to vintage Champagne without the price tag! “Mine’s the Huia Blanc de Blancs. Not just a NZ top 5, it’s in my top 5 ever!” said Will Lowe, Wine & Spirits Educator for Bibendum.
It’s yeasty with baked apple strudle, brioche, oats and citrus on the nose. The palate is refined with depth and texture. The finish just compliments the overall nature of the wine, long and dry. A true standout amongst the crowd. RRP $35, great value at this price, can be found under $30. Grab all you can.

Nautilus Estate Cuvee NV: This wine is a show winner! It represents jus how good NV NZ bubbles can be. Michael Cooper mentioned it in his book ‘100 Must-Try New Zealand Wines’. So don’t just take it from me.
It’s a very distinct wine, more Champagne that plain old bubbles. The fine bubbles (bead), delicate mousse, and long dry finish make for great drinking. RRP $35 but over festive period you can find this sub $30

Morton Estate Premium Brut Methode Traditionnelle: One of the most reliable cheap NZ bubbles found in most supermarkets. Full of stonefruit and hint of brioche. The palate is apple and citrus fruit. It’s a real Christmas on a budget wine. Very popular for Summer BBQs. To be found in Supermarkets for around $19

Quartz Reef Methode Traditionelle NV: Made by Rudi Bauer, from vineyards that lie in the Bendigo region of Central Otago. Stewed apple encrusted with freshly baked bread on the nose. Good structure and depth on the palate. Fine bead and length. RRP $35 but usually found for below $25 over Christmas.